The fascinating world of Roman hairstyles and grooming offers a unique insight into the culture and fashion of ancient Rome.
Hairstyle fashion was ever changing over the centuries which spanned the Roman period, with a variety of styles used throughout the Roman Empire's existence.
Styles often reflected social status and class, and were also heavily influenced by politics, popular trends, and regional differences.
Women's hairstyles in particular evolved significantly, from the simpler early styles to more elaborate and intricate designs during the Roman Imperial Period.
Along with hairstyles, Roman headwear played an essential role in highlighting the wearer's social status and achievements. For example, the laurel wreath was a symbol of victory and was often worn by victorious military generals during a triumph.
Women's headwear primarily consisted of the palla, which served as a multifunctional shawl that could cover the entire figure, and was often coordinated with the woman's hairstyle, creating a harmonious presentation.
In this article, we will explore the various aspects of Roman hairstyles, personal grooming and headwear, delving into the cultural significance and influence on Roman daily life. From sources such as art, statues, coins and descriptions in literature from the time, we can piece together a vivid understanding of the importance of appearance and fashion during this remarkable time in history.
Historical Background of Roman Hairstyles
Influence of Ancient Greece
Roman hairstyles and headwear were, like a lot of things, significantly influenced by ancient Greece.
Much like the Greeks, the Romans considered hair to be an important expression of personal identity and a means of cultural expression. Hairstyles and headwear were not just fashion choices but also held symbolic and social significance.
Some of the most popular Greek hairstyles, like the distinctive conical knot, were adopted by the Romans and became popular trends during the reign of Emperor Antoninus Pius and his wife, Faustina, in the period of 138-161 AD [source: historyrob.com]
Roman Empire
As the Roman Empire expanded, so did the diversity of hairstyles and headwear. During the Roman Republic and early Empire, hairstyles were simple and functional, with women typically wearing their hair long and parted down the middle, while men kept their hair short and neat.
However, as the Empire grew and became more cosmopolitan, hairstyles evolved to become more intricate and sophisticated. The elite nobles, especially, adopted increasingly elaborate hairstyles to show off their wealth and social standing.
Roman women often styled their hair with tight curls, braids, and buns, sometimes adorned with jewels and accessories. Men's hairstyles, on the other hand, varied much more over time and across different provinces of the Empire.
In some periods, beards were common, while in others, men shaved their faces and wore their hair short and oiled.
The wealthier citizens of Rome followed the fashion trends from the Imperial court, and their hairstyles became a reflection of their social status and personal identity.
For example, women from elite families would often employ slaves or professional hairdressers, known as ornatrices, to craft intricate hairstyles. These hairdressers used a variety of tools, including combs, water bowls, pomades, shiny metal "mirrors," and large sewing needles called acus [source: college.unc.edu] to create and maintain elaborate hairstyles that could incorporate precious gems, pearls, and intricate gold hairpins.
Less privileged citizens would often attempt to emulate these styles within their means and capabilities.
Men's Hairstyles and Facial Hair in Rome
Variety in Ancient Roman Hairstyles
Men's hairstyles in ancient Rome were usually simple and functional, reflecting their occupations and social status. Legionary soldiers, for example, preferred short, clean haircuts that were easy to maintain and hygienic, while a messy male Roman haircut and beard were also possible for ordinary citizens.
In general, men's hairstyles varied, with some men choosing to grow their hair longer or to wear it in curls, or even dyeing their hair. Hairpins and ribbons were unlikely to have been used by men, as they are typically only found in the tombs of Roman women.
Julius Caesar
One of the most iconic figures in Roman history, Julius Caesar, had a distinctive hairstyle that set him apart from other men in Rome.
With hair that was cut short and, in later years, displaying a large forehead because of his receding hairline, Caesar's hairstyle became a symbol of power and authority.
In fact, his hairstyle was so influential that it inspired other Roman men to adopt a similar look in an attempt to aspire to Caesar's status and success.
Augustus
Following Julius Caesar's reign, Emperor Augustus also established his own distinctive hairstyle.
Unlike Caesar's short and combed-forward style, Augustus favored longer hair that was neatly arranged and sometimes curled, in a similar style to that seen in busts of Gnaeus Pompeius Magnus (Pompey the Great).
His hairstyle accentuated his status and influence, and like Caesar, inspired other Roman men who wished to emulate the esteemed emperor.
Women's Hairstyles and Hairdressing Techniques
Braids, Curls, and Hair Extensions
Roman hairstyles were distinctive and varied, with multiple braids and curls being a common theme. Hair extensions were used to add length and volume, allowing for elaborate styles [source: upstyledaily.com].
Often, women's hair was parted in the center, and the sides were rolled and twisted down along the face before being arranged into detailed braids or curls.
Influenced by both Greek and Roman culture, empresses and noblewomen would wear complex arrangements of braids adorned with jewels. For example, Julia Domna, a Roman empress, was known for her elaborately braided hairstyle, which became a symbol of Imperial power. Women from different social classes would try to emulate her hairstyle, using any means possible to create similar braids and curls.
On the other hand, simpler hairstyles were also prevalent among women of lower social standing. They would typically wear their hair long, gathered behind the head in a bun or a ponytail.
Hair Decorations and Accessories
Roman women used an assortment of hair decorations and accessories to enhance their hairstyles. For example, women from various social classes would wear a mitra, a cloth headband, to keep their hair out of their face. Married women would also wear a special head covering called a palla or stola to signify their marital status.
Furthermore, special headwear like wreaths were reserved for specific occasions or individuals. For instance, victorious generals could wear a laurel wreath, and at funerals, Romans would adorn their hairstyles with specific accessories to honor the deceased, as part of their burial traditions.
Hair Care and Grooming Accessories in Ancient Rome
Washing and Dyeing Techniques
In ancient Rome, hair care played a significant role in personal grooming. Washing and dyeing techniques were essential aspects of maintaining a clean and stylish appearance.
The Romans would generally wash their hair with water and natural ingredients such as olive oil and vinegar. They also utilized a variety of natural dyes, such as henna and saffron, to color their hair and enhance the richness of their natural shades.
In addition, as mentioned earlier, some men and women would wear hair extensions to add length and volume to their hairstyles.
Combs
Combs were a common grooming tool in ancient Rome. Ancient Roman "beauty cases" discovered in the tombs of women include combs, which were used for detangling, styling, and maintaining the cleanliness of their hair.
Roman combs were made from various materials such as bone, ivory, or bronze, and featured a range of fine to wide-toothed designs to accommodate different hair types and grooming needs.
Razors
Razors were also an important grooming accessory for Roman men, as beards were not always fashionable. During the late Republic era, many important Romans preferred to be depicted with clean-shaven faces and bald heads, reflecting a sense of dedication to the Roman state and wisdom [source: getty.edu].
Just as they do today, barbers played an important role in Roman society, providing men with grooming services that included shaving with razors. The razor blades were made from metal, and their design evolved over time to become more efficient and user-friendly.
Hairpins
Hairpins were another essential element of Roman hair grooming, mainly for women. Used for securing and adorning various hairstyles, hairpins were made from materials such as bone, metal, or glass, and were often ornately decorated. Some hairpins even featured an acus, a large sewing needle that helped create elaborate braids and updos.
Like combs, hairpins were commonly found in Roman tombs and amongst the ruins of Roman houses and dwellings, highlighting their importance in the daily grooming routines of ancient Roman women.
Roman Hairstyles in Art and Archaeology
Depictions in Statues, Busts, and Frescoes
Roman hairstyles are well-documented through various artistic works such as statues, busts, frescoes and mosaics. These artistic representations give historians and archeologists insights into the ever-changing fashion of hairstyle in ancient Rome.
For example, the marble bust of Matidia I, dating to 119 AD, showcases an elaborate hairstyle that was popular in the Roman Imperial period.
Findings from Tombs and Excavations
Archeological excavations at tombs and other ancient sites provide further evidence of Roman hairstyles. In some cases, these findings have corrected previously held assumptions made by historians.
For example, it was believed that many ancient women depicted with gravity-defying curls, bumps, and buns were wearing wigs. However, hair-style archaeologists have since discovered that natural hair was often used to achieve these complex hairstyles.
Such findings came to light in tombs and excavations, where hairpins or "acus" were discovered. These pins were intricately used to secure and style hair, corroborating the belief that ancient women fashioned their hair in elaborate hairstyles without the use of wigs. Excavations at sites such as Delphi have also provided more evidence of the types of hairstyles and hair accessories used in the Roman period.
The study of Roman hairstyles, both through artistic depictions and archeological findings, offers a fascinating glimpse into the cultural history of this ancient civilization. It demonstrates how hairstyle trends evolved over time, reflecting the interactions with neighboring cultures and the personal preferences of the individuals wearing them.
Frequently Asked Questions
What were the most popular hairstyles among Ancient Roman women?
Ancient Roman women commonly wore symmetrical hairstyles with a center part. Hairstyle fashion in Rome was ever changing, and particularly in the Roman Imperial period, there were a number of different ways to style hair. Some popular options included elaborate updos and various braided styles.
To replicate ancient Roman hairstyles, experts study portraits in sculptures and coins, looking for details such as part lines and hairlines.
How did Ancient Romans style short hair?
Short hair was commonly seen amongst Roman men. While we often think of clean, neatly trimmed haircuts when picturing Roman men, statues and busts reveal that messy hairstyles were also possible. Soldiers, however, generally preferred easy-to-maintain and hygienic styles.
Which hair accessories were commonly used by Romans?
Hair accessories played an important role in Ancient Roman hairstyles. They often used items such as hairpins, ribbons, and bands to create intricate styles and keep their hair in place. Wealthier individuals might also use more elaborate accessories made of precious metals or adorned with gemstones.
What types of head coverings were worn in Ancient Rome?
Romans did not generally wear hats or decorative headdresses throughout their civilization, which lasted from the founding of Rome in 753 BC to the fall of the western Roman Empire in 476 AD. However, head coverings were sometimes used for practical purposes, such as protection from the sun or cold. For example, laborers might wear simple caps or cloth coverings.
How did Roman emperors distinguish themselves with headwear?
While headwear was not common in Ancient Rome, emperors occasionally used unique headpieces to symbolize their power and authority. Laurel wreaths, made from gold or leaves, were used to signify victory or achievement in various realms, including the military and the arts. Roman emperors might also wear a diadem, a thin headband made of precious materials, to mark their status.
What role did braids play in Roman hairstyles?
Braids were a popular element in Roman female hairstyles. They were used to create elaborate updos, frame the face, or add intricate details to otherwise simple styles.
Different types of braids, such as thick or thin, and the way they were integrated into a hairstyle could also symbolize wealth, social status, or divine prominence [source: Ancient Hairstyles of the Greco-Roman World].
