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Gordopolis

Venice! Advice?

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Hi All & HNY,

 

I'm heading to Venice soon for a break. I'm struggling tho to find a good list of late Roman/Byzantine sites to visit there. Can anyone advise on the 'must-see' places there?

 

Cheers,

Gordon

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https://www.thebyzantinelegacy.com/ven-byzantine- sez (embolded by me):

Quote

Venetian-Byzantine Architecture

All across the city, Venice shows complex influences of Byzantine, Islamic and Gothic architecture. It is under the rule of Byzantium, that Venice came into existence. While little remains from the earliest period, it can best be seen in Torcello Cathedral, north of Venice. The Basilica of Saint Mark (San Marco), though, is the most spectacular example. Modeled after the Church of the Holy Apostles, it is is one of the best places to see a Byzantine church is all of its glory. There are other examples though. The Murano Church, just north of the main group of islands, dates to the 12th century and has a great example of a Byzantine mosaic floor. There is also Ca' da Mosto, a Venetian-Byzantine style palace from the early 13th century, which is the oldest building on the Grand Canal. The Fondaco dei Turchi is another 13th century example of Venetian-Byzantine architecture. It would later serve as the fondaco (a one-building ghetto) for the Ottoman Turks involved in trade in Venice.

I am a Venice fanatic but not so much the Byz angle (St Mark etc) so may be a contra-indicator for you. I found Murano and Torcello islands painfully blah. Pay attention to ferry schedule for Torcello; you may have to commit to a very short or long wait for the return. Stopover in Burano which is super cute, if well over the top. They have/had coin bathrooms with no change made at the time. 

Mosto and Turchi facades go by fast on a waterbus, so maybe look for viewpoints from other side of canal. One is a hotel and the other a zoolog museum, so visiting may have complications. I normally love museums, but in Venice I only find the huge Maritime museum inspiring. Nobody visits there, and the staff tries to herd everyone out way before the 1:30 closing, but you may find Byz cannons or whatever.

Consider a quick excursion to Padua for mosaics, etc. The charming neighborhoods in Venice are Dorsoduro (SW) and Castello (NE). The famous walk of train station - Rialto bridge - San Marco is a cattle drive horror show punctuated by pigeon poop. To get from west to east walk the alternate route of bus station - Academy bridge and onward; that's what Italian commuters do.

Venice has the worst food in Italy since it has negligible Italian customers. Instead of tourist gelato which tastes like shaving cream with food coloring, get sorbetto tailored to more refined taste. Instead of stockpiled wet cardboard pizza slices, order a whole pie with gourmet ingredients they have to prepare for you. Above all, wander around at dawn and night when daytripper hordes are gone.

Edited by caesar novus
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14 hours ago, caesar novus said:

 

https://www.thebyzantinelegacy.com/ven-byzantine- sez (embolded by me):

I am a Venice fanatic but not so much the Byz angle (St Mark etc) so may be a contra-indicator for you. I found Murano and Torcello islands painfully blah. Pay attention to ferry schedule for Torcello; you may have to commit to a very short or long wait for the return. Stopover in Burano which is super cute, if well over the top. They have/had coin bathrooms with no change made at the time. 

Mosto and Turchi facades go by fast on a waterbus, so maybe look for viewpoints from other side of canal. One is a hotel and the other a zoolog museum, so visiting may have complications. I normally love museums, but in Venice I only find the huge Maritime museum inspiring. Nobody visits there, and the staff tries to herd everyone out way before the 1:30 closing, but you may find Byz cannons or whatever.

Consider a quick excursion to Padua for mosaics, etc. The charming neighborhoods in Venice are Dorsoduro (SW) and Castello (NE). The famous walk of train station - Rialto bridge - San Marco is a cattle drive horror show punctuated by pigeon poop. To get from west to east walk the alternate route of bus station - Academy bridge and onward; that's what Italian commuters do.

Venice has the worst food in Italy since it has negligible Italian customers. Instead of tourist gelato which tastes like shaving cream with food coloring, get sorbetto tailored to more refined taste. Instead of stockpiled wet cardboard pizza slices, order a whole pie with gourmet ingredients they have to prepare for you. Above all, wander around at dawn and night when daytripper hordes are gone.

Brilliant info - thank you very much!!!

I am interested in the Venetian Empire/Republic history too, but I am very much a novice in that period. Is the Maritime Musuem the same as the Arsenale?

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23 hours ago, Gordopolis said:

I am interested in the Venetian Empire/Republic history too, but I am very much a novice in that period. Is the Maritime Musuem the same as the Arsenale?


What a wonderful trip planned. Despite traveling to Italy a few times to visit relatives, I’ve never been to Venice. Looking at the map, the two places are very close, but are distinct sites. Looking at web sites, only the North Arsenal is regularly open. The Southern Arsenal is open only during the biannual art festival.
 

IMG_2117.thumb.jpeg.e797d27190ba518c1fd81e047f7e06bc.jpeg
 

From the picture, one can see the Arsenal and the maritime museum (Museo Storico Navale) are extremely close.

Sounds fun. Post pictures.

 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Museo_Storico_Navale

 

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venetian_Arsenal

Edited by guy

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5 hours ago, Gordopolis said:

Is the Maritime Musuem the same as the Arsenale?

Oh no, Maritime museum is closed for renovation except for a small annex. Arsenale is nearby but not sure how much is open; I actually never found an entrance. To east is spacious area to wander since Napoleon had a canal converted to a wide boulevard with parks and uncrowded benches to eat snacks etc. https://www.marina.difesa.it/EN/history/museums/Pagine/museostoriconavale.aspx

If it is in season, drink plenty of fresh squeezed arancia rossa which is like rasberries. I just scored a bag of these and am in the afterglow of first taste in a while:

1000_F_21113423_2vP0vFsiCLgdjzHwJHNlmt1k

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